Kurt Archer

In the heart of beautiful Amritsar in Punjab, the jewel city of the Sikh followers, lays the Golden Temple, by far one of the most ambitious developments of the millennium. Over 750 years old, this temple was enacted by Guru Nanak, the first Guru of Sikhism.

The religion boasts a very humanitarian approach to life; to serve humanity is to serve God, as some signs around the compound will tell you. This feat is proven in its entirety on the sheer volume of travelers, pilgrims and devotees that come through the gates. All throughout the day and night volunteers are working to sweep the premise, to clean the temple, and enacting their duty to service the people of this sanctuary.

Most noteworthy are the eating grounds provided here. The Langar Khanna (Blessed Food) is a completely systematized wheel of food for the people. No cost for entrance and all are welcome. Everyone eats together in lines on the floor so there is no distinction in class here. Thousands of people come through these gates everyday, and everyday they provide this service. It is all funded by the amount of donations and volunteers provided.

First, you get your metal dish, a metal bowl for drinking and a spoon. Then you, like hundreds others like you at this time, enter the large hall where everyone will sit in lines, cross legged. Volunteers then come by with spoonfuls of daal (lentils), rice, curd, or halva (a sweet flour mixture) in the mornings. All vegetarian options. Water is poured into the bowls for drinking and the food is eaten with small rotis (similar to pita bread). After you are done, you carry your plate outside, hand over the spoon to these men sitting in chairs, and then you pass your dish and bowl down an assembly line of volunteers who take the dirty plates in large trolleys over to the dish washing area where even more volunteers are ready to clean all the dishes that come their way. Then you move along to the side of the Langar Khanna and take another metal bowl for chai (tea with milk) and enjoy it amongst a crowd.

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Well I have arrived to Amritsar through the Wagha border. Last time I came through here, I paid 550 Rupees for a cab, this time I paid only Rs. 35…

So I met this actor and sufi from UK with a background from Jalunder and Pakistan. Its been great fun so far, exploring the Golden Temple; walking the narrow alley ways. Yes, it is as everyone has said it is, grand and beautiful. We sat with a Guru ji who told us all about Sikhism, and how connected to nature they are. I asked what they think of Sufism, and he responded, that because he is Sikh, he is also Sufi. Beautiful. It was just the kind of wisdom I have wanted to experience while here. 

Another amazing experience was the closing and cleaning ceremony. Hundreds of volunteers were there to help take down everything, clean everything, people we pushing and shoving to do service for the Palace. And the free food! It is a system I have never seen before, so effective, so efficient. From cleaning bins, to trays for daal and and water bowls. Everything one could ask for and more. This system needs to be documented and replicated in other place; indeed a best case practice. 

We are also staying for free at the hostels here, there is a section for foreigners here and everything. I'm planning on staying one more night before I head to Dharamsala and McLeod Ganj. All I can say now is Jai Hind!

Last night I arrived in Pak Pattan Sharif, which is about 2 and a half hours outside of Lahore, but if you’re like me and took the Niazi Bus, then expect it to take 7 hours. Yes 7 hours later at midnight I arrive in this town of less than 150,000 people. Instead of cars, I could hear crickets; instead of noise from the streets below I heard only silence. I struggled to find my way to the Mazaar, but once I reached I was greeted by the kindest hospitality, and the warmest food. A real treat indeed.

That night we slept under the stars, in real hand woven charpai’s, sleep came to me as a faint sound of crickets in the moon light.

This truly is an amazing place to start my journey, as I am surrounded by silence, and opportunity. The banes of busy life stress have all vanished, and I have been able to practice the power of Now.

Today we awoke with the light, enjoyed home cooked breakfast, real lassi, chai and khava. We then paid a visit to Baba Farid’s Mazaar, where I quickly became a sort of celebrity with my white skin. My entourage of 50 children-in-toe made it difficult to enjoy the silence, but the qawwali singers brought music to life, with such passion and expression exhuming from their devotion. An experience that can only be characterized as fez, or fayd, which means the overwhelming joy one has with their divine source.

The kids ended up being a blessing, as after wandering the street gulleys, the kids brought us up onto a hill overlooking the Mazaar and the whole of Pak Pattan Sharif, where we flew kites and took many pictures.

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